Lizard Care Guides
Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps) Care Guide
HOUSING/ENCLOSURE
The enclosure set-up depends on the size and age of the Bearded Dragon.
Bearded Dragons are solitary animals and should generally be housed on their own, otherwise you may face dominance and aggression issues.
An adult Bearded Dragon should be housed in an enclosure which should measure no less than 1.2 metres long, 0.6 metres high and 0.45-0.6 metres wide.
Good ventilation is essential to help with air circulation, temperature and managing humidity.
A hide must be provided for your Bearded Dragon in both ends of the tank (hot end and cool end) to minimise the risk of stress. These hides should be easy to remove so that you can check on your Bearded Dragon as needed and all enclosure furnishings should be cleaned regularly. In the wild, most Bearded Dragons spend their time in bushes, trees or basking on rocks. If they get too hot, they will sometimes burrow underground to seek protection. A captive enclosure must offer these facilities. Thick branches, rocks, hollows, basking sites and climbing facilities are essential to minimise stress and provide choice for self-regulation and environmental enrichment.
It is not recommended to allow your dragon to roam around the house, or to be out of the enclosure unsupervised. Outside of the enclosure they are at risk of overcooling, escaping, trauma, ingestion of foreign or toxic material and also potentially spreading zoonotic diseases such as Salmonella.
HEATING/LIGHTING
It is recommended that you supply a day-night cycle for your Bearded Dragon of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness but adjusting this cycle to match
natural cycles is also possible and may contribute to more natural behaviour. This day-night cycle is also essential for normal mental health.
Bearded Dragons have strict requirements concerning UVB light supplementation as they rely on UVB light rays to be able to produce vitamin D3 in their skin
adequately. Vitamin D3 is essential for proper calcium metabolism in Bearded Dragons. UVB light can be provided by artificial 'UV-lights'; however, there is no substitute for natural unfiltered sunlight, and it is recommended that Bearded Dragons should receive sunlight for 20-30-minute periods at least 2-3 times a week.
Having a large enough enclosure with properly placed branches, rocks, hides and shelters, allows your Bearded Dragon to thermoregulate, keeping its body temperature in its preferred optimal temperature zone (POTZ). Therefore, Bearded Dragons must be provided with a 'temperature gradient' in their enclosure. This means they need a 'hot' end and a 'cool' end. Temperatures should be monitored with thermometers at both of these ends to ensure there is adequate ventilation.
The hot end should contain a specific ‘basking area’ of which should be heated with a thermostatically controlled reflector globe (reptile specific flood lamp or reptile specific spotlight) to create a basking temperature of 40-45C. To avoid thermal burns, the basking lamp should not be positioned too close to your lizard, and the basking area should be as large as your bearded dragon, so the entire body heats up evenly with no areas of excessive heat. The cool end of the enclosure should be around 20-24C to allow your dragon to escape the heat if desired.
DIET
Most Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, which means they eat both plant and insects. They should be fed a variety of insects (crickets, roaches, moths, silkworms, beetles and black soldier fly larvae) which can be rotated throughout
their feeding schedule. You can also provide a mixture of leafy salad greens and vegetables such as dandelion, endive, romaine, spring mix, mustard greens, microgreens, beetroot tops, Asian greens, collard greens carrots, parsley,
basil, squash, zucchini with no or only a small amount of fruit occasionally such as blueberries or raspberries.
Juveniles should be fed once every 1-2 days and adults every 2-4 days.
BRUMATION
During the cooler months, wild Bearded Dragons will often slow their metabolism down in response to the lower temperatures, shorter day length and decreased
available food and water. Despite a more controlled environment in captivity, millions of years of instinct can still take over and cause your Bearded Dragon to enter this state slowed state. During this period, your Bearded Dragon may not eat, drink, defecate, or move for several weeks. They may bury themselves completely underground; go to the darkest coolest part of the enclosure becoming very unresponsive. A healthy Bearded Dragon can safely undergo brumation but young Bearded Dragons (under 12 months old) or those that are not in top physical condition should not be allowed to enter this state and you should seek veterinary advice if suspected.
HANDLING
Most Bearded Dragons can become very used to being handled but over handling can be stressful. When handling your Bearded Dragon, support the whole body of the Bearded Dragon from underneath (particularly the fore & hind limbs) and try to avoid squeezing them.
HEALTH CARE
It is recommended that you have your Bearded Dragon vet-checked every 6-12 months. It is a good idea to regularly weigh and record the body weight of your Bearded Dragon.
Common health issues include intestinal parasites (worms), Dysecdysis (abnormal shedding), Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and respiratory infections.
Smooth Knob-Tailed Gecko (Nephrurus Levis Pilbarensis) Care Guide
HOUSING/ENCLOSURE
Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos can be housed in many different styles of enclosures however, the minimum standard size of an enclosure for a pair (male/female) or trio (male/female/female) of Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos should measure no less than 0.6 metres long, 0.3 meters high and 0.3 meters wide.
Good ventilation is essential to help with air circulation, temperature and managing humidity.
We recommend for you to provide your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos with approximately 10-12CM deep sand substrate in their enclosure to enable them to excavate their own burrows.
A hide must be provided for your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos in both ends of the tank (hot end and cool end) to minimise the risk of stress. These hides should be easy to remove so that you can check on your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos as needed and all enclosure furnishings should be cleaned regularly. Enclosure furnishings may include items such as natural rocks, tree branches and hollows and will aide to minimise stress and provide choice for self-regulation and environmental enrichment.
HEATING/LIGHTING
Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos do not require UVB light rays however, they must be provided with a 'temperature gradient' in their enclosure. This means they need a 'hot' end and a 'cool' end. A heat mat or heat cord should be fastened to the underside of one of the ends of the enclosure to give you your ‘hot’ end. The ‘hot’ end should consists of a temperature between 30-32C and the ‘cool’ end of the enclosure should be around 24-26C.
Temperatures should be monitored with thermometers at both of these ends to ensure there is adequate ventilation.
DIET
A Smooth Knob-Tailed Gecko in captivity should be fed a variety of insects (crickets, roaches, moths, silkworms, beetles and black soldier fly larvae) which can be rotated throughout their feeding schedule. They hunt at night and emerge from their burrows/hides early in the evening, so they are best fed during this time. Additionally, you should mist the enclosure with water once every couple of days. If your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos are out and about, mist them with water also so that they can hydrate by licking the water droplets from their face/eyes.
We recommend regular dusting of their food with the appropriate calcium and multivitamin powder.
Juveniles should be fed once every 1-2 days and adults every 2-4 days.
BRUMATION
During the cooler months, wild Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos will often slow their metabolism down in response to the lower temperatures, shorter day length and decreased available food and water. Despite a more controlled environment in captivity, millions of years of instinct can still take over and cause your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos to enter this state slowed state. During this period, your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos may not eat, drink, defecate, or move for several weeks. They may bury themselves completely underground; go to the darkest coolest part of the enclosure becoming very unresponsive. A healthy Smooth Knob-Tailed Gecko can safely undergo brumation but young Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos (under 12 months old) or those that are not in top physical condition should not be allowed to enter this state and you should seek veterinary advice if suspected.
HANDLING
As Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos are nocturnal and fairly secretive, they may be come easily stressed from too much handling and are not a suitable pet but are fun to watch and keep.
HEALTH CARE
It is a good idea to regularly weigh and record the body weight of your Smooth Knob-Tailed Geckos.
Common health issues include Dysecdysis (abnormal shedding), Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and regurgitation of food.